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Friday, May 25, 2012

A Day With Dr. Alex Shigo

Baldcypress (Taxodium distichum) trees are one of the trees recommended by Dr. Alex Shigo to be planted in city conditions.  The Baldcypress tree in this picture is on the Campus Drive side of St. Mary's Residence Hall on the University of Maryland campus.

Recently, while rummaging through some old notebooks filled with plant information, I found some notes that I made from a conference or symposium given on June 5, 1994 by Dr. Alex Shigo.  Dr. Shigo has been dubbed by some people as the 'Father of Modern Arboriculture.'  Many foresters and horticulturists just need to hear the name 'Shigo' and immediately know who that you are talking about.  At the time I made these notes, I was living in Lincoln, NE and working as a landscape designer for Campbell's Nurseries.

Growing up in Kansas, a plains state where the vast open prairie was once king, trees were a rare and treasured commodity to me.  I loved looking through books such as The Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Trees.  The seductive glossy color pictures showed exotic leaf shapes that I had never seen before and bright fall leaf colors that were very alluring. 
Trees are big, up in your face type of plants that demand to be noticed.  They are much easier to pick out as individuals from a greater distance than most other kinds of plants.  Sometimes, trees within a species can appear to be be different from one another due to various environmental conditions or trauma that they have encountered over the years.  Prairie grasses with their fine bladed, herbaceous leaves are much harder to distinguish as individuals than trees with their their large woody trunks; however, in vast numbers in a tightly spaced community, grasses can work together with forbs, an unfettered view of the sky and the sometimes sparse accents of shrubs and trees to create quite dramatic landscapes.  Because trees can be distinguished as individuals and are usually long lived, it is easier to have an emotional attachment to them than other kinds of plant.  Great grandmother's treasured fern leaf peony that has been lovingly handed down through the generations might be an exception.

When I saw the information the Dr. Alex Shigo would be speaking at the spectacular and recently constructed Lied Lodge & Conference Center, part of the Arbor Day Farm in nearby Nebraska City, NE, I decided that this was an opportunity that I did not want to miss out on.  I was not disappointed.

Dr. Shigo's opening statement was 'Training without education is subjugation.'  As soon as I heard that statement, I knew that we were going to be in for an intense day of training by someone that was very passionate.  While today I do not remember what Dr. Shigo looked like, there were some concepts and information that Dr. Shigo introduced that day that made a big impression on me and have stuck with me and been a part of my thinking on trees ever since.  While many years have passed since that day, the information that he presented is still accurate and unfortunately, still unknown to many that it would be helpful to.

One of the first points that Dr. Shigo made that was that you cannot expect instant results with correct tree pruning methods.  It takes 5-6 years before that you or your neighbors will notice a difference in the way that the trees are pruned.

Below are some scattered notes on concepts and examples that Dr. Shigo gave that caught my attention:
  • 'In Denmark, trees are root pruned 4-5 times before leaving the nursery'.  He was a big believer of root pruning in nurseries.  Shigo insisted that you need to make clean cuts when root pruning.  Most American nurseries do not root prune that often to my knowledge.
  • 'Well paid people are people paid for making decisions.  We are paid for making correct decisions'  I think this statement was related to if you (an arborist or tree care professional) just do what a customer asks without alerting the customer to the fact that what they are asking you to do is not a good tree management practice, you will not be able to ask a decent price for your services, given the probable bad end results.
  • Do not mix trees that like dry conditions in the same planting with trees that like wet conditions.  The different water requirements will kill one group of trees when you have an automatic irrigation system that does not allow for this differences in water requirements.
  • 'Trees should be planted in clusters rather than singulary'.
  • When transplanting, 'the smaller the tree, the better for long term survival.'  Recently, the wife of a former college roommate that now lives near Emporia, KS asked me on Facebook what kind of trees she should consider planting that she would likely have good results with as she had very poor results with some maple trees that she had previously planted.  When I suggested that she plant an acorn from some oak trees native to the area where that she lived, I think she was quite shocked and thought that I was joking as a reply quickly came back 'PLANT AN ACORN???  Seriously, ....'   
  • Absorption of many nutrients by a tree's roots happens during the winter.  Mycorrhizae that surround tree roots can help keep the soil from being frozen in that immediate area.  Mycorrhizae can also help aid in the absorption of nutrients by a tree's roots, much better than a a tree's roots can on their own without the help of mycorrhizae.  The pH can vary by up to 2 points from the soil to within mycorrhizae.  This can be very helpful to uptake of nutrients as the availability of nutrients in the soil is pH dependent.  Snow and leaf litter can also aid in keeping the soil from being frozen in winter, allowing the absorption of nutrients in winter.
  • Composted mulch (ground leaves and twigs) is a good product to use to encourage the growth of mycorrhizae.  Mycorrhizae do not grow well in compacted soils.  Shigo felt that a thin application of composted mulch was better than a thick one and that it would be better to mulch two to three times per year.  He mentioned that Disney World mulches 3 times per year.  This concept may be a hard sell to people on a tight budget as weeds will likely come up in a thin mulch and additional money will have to be spent on weed removal and the reapplication of mulch.  Application of fresh wood chips brings with it the possibility of undesirable pathogens that may harm a tree.
  • 'Healthy mycorrhizae on a tree keep pathogens away that can cause problems.'
  • 'Mycorrhizae live at least a year while root hairs come and go quickly.  Root hairs live only a couple weeks.'
  • 'Do not stake trees or they will become weak.' 
  • 'Oak roots can be like carrots, bigger than the above ground parts.  Pull up a 1/2" caliper maple and then challenge an unsuspecting friend to pull up a 1/2" caliper oak.'
  • 'Temperature really affects photosynthesis.  Photosynthesis stops when temperatures reach over 100 degrees Fahrenheit.  Photosynthesis moves into the interior of trees on hot days.  You need leaves on the inside of a tree because of this.  Do not clean the leaves out of the center of a tree!'
  • 'Tree wounds spread less if that they occur in spring.  They spread more severely in the fall.'
  • 'Do not drain slime flux by drilling and inserting tubes as the holes open up new sites for disease spread.'
  • 'Cut close to the tree collar, whether it is close to or far out from the trunk.  Flush cuts create internal cracks.'

    Blue lines show where that the last saw cut should be made just outside of a branch collar on a Crapemyrtle tree in order to remove the branch.

    The saw cut made to remove this branch on a Goldenraintree (Koelreuteria paniculata) appears to have been a flush cut.  Notice the decay inside of the wound and how little callus tissue has formed around the outside of the wound.  Also, there is no bulge away from the tree trunk.  The cut appears to have been made inside of the branch collar rather than outside of it.

    A dead branch was allowed to remain on this Sawtooth Oak (Quercus acutissima) a number of years before being removed.  The edge of the callus tissue that is closest to the trunk is where that the cut should have been made at the time that the branch first died to remove it.  The wound would have healed much faster.  If no branch collar is visible which happens on some trees, the angle shown in this photo is generally a good angle to cut to remove a branch.

    Excellent removal cut on a Goldenraintree (Koelreuteria paniculata) that was made just outside of the branch collar.  If you cannot detect a branch collar, this is generally a good angle and distance away from the trunk to cut.

    A good removal cut was made on this Crabapple (Malus sp.) tree.  The callus roll that forms the doughnut shaped ring around the wound appears to be very healthy and healing relatively quickly.
    This photo shows a branch collar on a Sugar Maple (Acer Saccharum) that has formed at a quite unusual angle.  The blue lines show where that the recommended last cut be made in order to remove the branch.  These blue lines are just outside of the branch collar. 
    Completely healed wound on a Crabapple (Malus sp.) tree.
  • 'Trees need a continuing supply of energy.  Do not cut roots and the top both at the same time.  Your are reducing the energy, either stored energy or future energy to be captured by the sun.  Don't worry about trying to balance top and roots by pruning.'  Independent research by prof. Carl Whitcomb of Oklahoma State University backs this up. 
  • Do not prune the top of a tree when planting, come back a year later and prune the top then if needed.
  • 'Everytime that a sprout comes up, you have adversely affected the energy of the tree.'  My comment is that the more branches you remove from a tree, the more likely you are to see adventitious sprouts form.  That is not a good thing!
  • 'Crabapples send up sprouts when planted too deeply.'
  • 'Enthusiasm is infectious.  Show customers how excited you are to be on their property helping them out.'
  • 'Indeterminate type trees that are fertilized late will continue to grow and not have the chance to form up energy carbohydrates that will allow the apical bud to have enough energy to emerge the following spring.'  This will cause the tips of twigs to die back.
  • 'First buds of planetrees do not have enough energy to withstand anthracnose, while the secondary buds have more energy in the and are more resistant to anthracnose.'

    Anthracnose on Sycamore or American Planetree (Platanus occidentalis).
  • Trees with thin bark such as birch, beech and planetrees can have photosynthesis occurring in the cortex of the tree.  This means that in these kind of trees, photosynthesis can occur in the twigs, branches and trunks of young trees.  These kind of trees can conduct photosynthesis on rare warm days in the winter.  Do not wrap the trunks of these trees as you block the sun and interfere with the process of photosynthesis.
  • Some young trees with living cells in the center of the tree such as planetrees for example can live five to six years after being girdled.  Most temperate zone trees do not have this capability.
  • 'Over pruning of trees is done to let customers know that the arborist was there.'
  • 'As trees get older, 90% of the pruning should come from dead wood.
  • 'Planetree and Catalpa are good species for the practice of pollarding.'  I wonder if Catalpa bignonioides 'Aurea' would make a good specimen or feature plant in the right location when pollarded.  Pollarding would certainly allow it to grow in a much smaller area.
  • On the west coast of the USA, many people take out too much wood on trees past maturity which often yields the unwanted result of Armillaria root rot.
  • 'Trees that do well in cities also tolerate wet soils.  Baldcypress make good city trees.'
  • 'You have one year after planting a tree too deep to pull the soil off of the top.'  
  • 'Burlap left in planting holes can last 20 years and will restrict root growth.'  I have personally seen untreated burlap last as least 5 years in planting holes and certainly agree with Dr. Shigo that as much of it as you can remove should be removed before filling in the planting hole. 
  • After removing the burlap on a tree root ball, cut off the bruised and torn roots cleanly.

This landscape installation crew is removing the burlap and manila cords or rope after that the tree has been set in the hole and stabilized.  Removing the burlap from trees when planting was one of Dr. Shigo's recommendations.

The landscape installation crew is back filling the hole after removal of the burlap that covered the root ball of the tree.

  • Do not apply nitrogen to a newly planted tree.  Sucking insects come when too much of the energy reserves intended for defense are used up in growth.
  • Plant on a mound if you have a tight clay soil with poor drainage that does not support the growth of trees. 
  • 'Improper grafting causes sun cracks on most fruit trees, not winter cold.'
  • It is best not to use tree wrap on trees.
  • 'Resistance to decay comes from within the plant which is why wound dressing does not work.'
  • Floods kill mycorrhizae which in turn leads to the death of obligatory trees (trees that rely totally on mycorrhizae).  Those trees that do not require mycorrhizae can probably survive a flood.
  • Roto-tilling under the canopy of a tree is the worst thing that you can do to a tree.  Piling soil around a tree is the next worst thing that you can do.  These two comments by Shigo pretty much eliminate the possibility of being able to successfully grow most annual flowers underneath of the canopy of trees if you want to continue to have healthy trees.
  • Roto-tilling will open up many jagged wounds that will attract disease organisms.
The above was just a small fraction of the information that Dr. Shigo presented that day.  He presented detailed support of his concepts, which for the most part I left out of my above notes.  If any of the above information interests you, I would highly recommend that you visit his official website for more detailed information.

Dr. Shigo was a very generous man as he issued an open invitation to all attendees that day to visit him in his laboratory in New Hampshire.  Dr. Shigo died on October 6, 2006.  His passing was a huge loss to the forestry and horticulture communities.  Fortunately, Dr. Shigo was someone willing to pass his information on to others and record it for future generations!

Tuesday, April 24, 2012

Persian Lilac, a lilac diva from the past

Persian Lilac blossoms

There is nothing new about the Persian Lilac (Syringa x persica) as this hybrid may be a couple of centuries old or older.  However, it is still one of the finest Lilacs of all time in my opinion.

On May 29, 1999, I had the opportunity to spend quite a bit of time examining the large lilac collection on display at the University of Minnesota's Minnesota Landscape Arboretum in Chanhassen, MN.  Two lilacs in particular that impressed me from this amazing collection were Himalayan Lilac (Syringa emodi) and 'Miss Canada' Preston Lilac (Syringa x prestoniae 'Miss Canada').  I did not see a Persian Lilac.  The Minnesota Landscape Arboretum is in USDA plant hardiness zone 4a, while our University of Maryland campus is in zone 7a.  The Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) and its hybrids seem to perform much better in cool summer climates such as Minnesota; however, the Persian Lilac seems to perform quite well in Maryland in our much warmer summer climate.  We may be hard pressed to grow attractive specimens of some of the beautiful lilacs that thrive so well in Minnesota; however, I feel that we can grow one of equivalent beauty and fragrance quite well, the Persian Lilac.

The Persian Lilac is more tolerant of adverse growing conditions than most other lilacs.  Once established, it can tolerate the weather extremes of a volatile continental climate such as that in southeastern Kansas quite well.  It can tolerate compacted, gravelly clay soils; however, it performs much better in good soils.  Most mature sizes for the Persian Lilac that I see listed in reference books I think are for ones grown in unfavorable environments or ones that may not have actually reached maturity.  While often Persian Lilac may get only 6 feet tall by 9 feet wide under poor growing conditions, in a favorable environment, it may get as large as 12 feet tall by 18 feet wide.  An example of Persian Lilacs planted in a favorable environment is a long hedge of them that I once observed that was planted for screening along the south property line of the Lincoln Country Club in Lincoln, Nebraska.  The climate, good soils, irrigation and full sun all came together to create some unusually large and vigorous Persian Lilacs.

Persian Lilac blossoms

Persian Lilacs can be covered with fragrant violet to lavender colored blooms at a very young age.  The flower petals open to a moderately intense violet color and then fade to a lighter pastel lavender color as they age.  The strong fragrance of the flowers is a very attractive, not at all like the unattractive, overpowering Privet like fragrance of some lilacs or like other lilacs with barely any fragrance at all.  The Persian Lilacs on our campus have a much stronger and more pleasant fragrance than the Common Lilacs on our campus.  The small blossoms are organized in structures called panicles.  The panicles are usually looser and more relaxed than the densely packed rigid panicles of Common Lilac.  Sometimes these panicles of flowers can cover a Persian Lilac shrub so densely that it is hard to see the newly emerged foliage.  The 5-6 inch panicles sometimes seem to fuse together to form much larger panicles around 12 inches in width.  The flowers of Persian Lilacs are much more abundant under full sun conditions than under partial shade conditions.  While Persian Lilac can tolerate and survive light shade, it produces very few blooms in shaded conditions and the few panicles that are produced are much smaller in size than under full sun conditions.  While Common Lilac and its hybrids may be reluctant to bloom well or sometimes bloom at all in a number of environments, Persian Lilac is a much more dependable and prolific bloomer in many different environments.  It also starts blooming well at a much younger age. 

Persian Lilac is a sterile hybrid so there is no need for concern about it being an invasive plant material that will invade our native plant communities.  There is not a lot of variation in individual plants since that they are produced vegetatively; however, I did notice minor variation in panicle size and density as well as a plants with panicles with relaxed droopy habits rather than upright habits in the long hedge at the Lincoln Country Club.  The growth habit of a Persian Lilac is much more relaxed and graceful than the dense, rigid habit of the Common Lilac.

Persian Lilac blossoms

They will tolerate much more abuse and neglect than most other Lilacs.  Yes, you can shear them, cut them back to the ground and neglect to water them when established and usually no permanent damage will be done.  If you feel that you must prune or shear them, I would recommend doing that immediately after they are finished flowering.  If you plant them in an appropriate location, there should be little need for pruning Persian Lilacs.  Minimal to no pruning should produce the best flower displays.  Make sure that all pruning is completed by July 1 to allow time for next spring's flowers to form.  The suckering on Persian Lilacs is usually fairly minor compared to the massive fields of suckers that usually come up around Common Lilacs.  I have not observed that the few suckers on Persian Lilacs diminish the flowering habit.  This is not the case with the suckers on Common Lilac.  My experience has been that Persian Lilacs do not need the thinning out and renewal type of pruning to bloom well that Common Lilacs need.  You can do that if you love pruning; however, I don't think it will make a large difference to a Persian Lilacs health and amount of blooms like that it can on a Common Lilac.

Common Lilacs and other Lilacs can be devastated by an insect known as the Lilac Borer.  This is a bigger problem in the southern limits of where that Lilacs can grow as they are not as vigorous there and are not as likely to be able to fend off attacks by the Lilac Borer.  The slender stems and branches of the Persian Lilac are much more resistant to the Lilac Borer than the larger and thicker stems and branches of the Common Lilac.  The leaves on the Persian Lilac are much smaller than on the Common Lilac.

Persian Lilac growing in partial shade on the south side of Carroll Hall.  Persian Lilacs will be much denser and have many more blooms in a sunny location.

Lilacs are very susceptible to powdery mildew on the leaves.  While powdery mildew can occur on Persian Lilacs in summer and create an unattractive whitish powdery coating over the leaves, it is usually not such a serious problem that is causes near total defoliation like that often happens on Common Lilacs.  The near total defoliation of Common Lilacs can impact their health in a negative way as they cannot produce the necessary food for good health without their leaves.

Persian Lilacs may be hard to find at local nurseries as there has been a very limited demand for them in recent decades.  One nursery near our campus that often has a limited number of Persian Lilacs available in 3 gallon pots in the early and mid spring time period is the Behnke Nurseries Company, 11300 Baltimore Ave., Beltsville, MD, 20705, (301) 937-1100.  Merrifeld Garden Center, 8132 Lee Hwy, Merrifield, VA  22116, (703) 560-6222 carries Persian Lilacs in two different sizes.  If you are a local retail nursery located within 50 miles of our campus and carry Persian Lilac, please let me know and I will add your nursery's contact information to this article.

While I have not tried the 'Miss Canada' Preston Lilac (Syringa x prestoniae 'Miss Canada') mentioned at the start of this article; Miri Talabac, Woody Plant Manager, with The Behnke Nurseries Company said that it does much better in our College Park, MD area than that the Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) and its hybrids do.

Persian Lilacs remind me of Azaleas in that they have a brief moment of glory when in bloom; however, they are relatively nondescript plants after that.  For some of us, once you have experienced the wonderful fragrance of Persian Lilacs and realize how easy that their care is, it easy to say 'Hello Sustainable Persian Lilacs,' and 'Goodbye High Maintenance Azaleas' that do not provide additional benefits like fragrance.  Persian Lilacs are often best used in large backyards, community property or public parks.  They would make a great screen for the small rusted metal tool and equipment shed located in the far corner of the backyard.  The smaller Dwarf Korean Lilac (Syringa meyeri 'Palibin) is a much more attractive landscape shrub for high profile areas such as front yards or adjacent to a patio; however, the blooms and panicles are much smaller and do not have the same wonderful fragrance of the Persian Lilac.

The flower panicles of Persian Lilacs can make great short lived cut flower arrangements.  No need to spray that fake scent in a spray can that florists often have to use with many cut roses and carnations as Persian Lilac flowers come with an awesome fragrance that is strong, but not overpowering.  No need for scented candles when the Persian Lilacs are in bloom.

Persian Lilacs as a sheared hedge in partial shade on the South side of Cole Field House.  The partial shade and the shearing has reduced the number of flowers to just a handful on these three plants.

closeup shot of the above sheared lilac hedge

close-up of blossoms on the top of the above sheared Persian Lilac hedge

close-up of blossoms on the side of the above sheared Persian Lilac hedge

Persian Lilacs are such tough and durable plants once established that they make good plants for cemeteries and other areas where that maintenance is often minimal.  They make a good plant for areas that are not irrigated once established.  Sometimes you can spot them in rural areas along the side of a road or in an abandoned farm yard where that they were once planted by people long ago.  The sight of the lilacs brings thoughts and questions about who were these people that planted these lilacs?  What was their story?  Often, you see Persian Lilacs growing in shady locations.  I feel that these locations were probably sunny when the Persian Lilacs were first planted.  Because of their durability and longevity, they often survive the transition from sun to light shade as trees grow.  The Persian Lilac is a plant that deserves to be brought out of the shadows of the past.

One of the good memories of my youth was experiencing a recycled decorative glass Tang drink mix container filled with water and fragrant Persian Lilac flowers that was set in the middle of the well worn gray faux wood grain Formica dining table.  I loved breathing deep to try to more fully experience the wonderful aroma from the Lilac flowers.

Tuesday, February 14, 2012

Just for Fun!

February is often a month of cutting back and pruning plants for those of us with landscapes and gardens to maintain.  The landscape is generally pretty drab with muted colors this time of year.  There are exceptions of course such as the attractive reddish colors of 'Firepower' Heavenly Bamboo (Nandina domestica 'Firepower').

'Firepower' Heavenly Bamboo on February 12, 2012

Benjamin Courtyard Garden on July 26, 2012
 In February, landscapes that were ablaze with colorful leaves and flowers last summer are just mere vestiges of their summer glory.  The colorful, exuberant late July garden becomes a much more monochromatic, sedate garden in February.

The Benjamin Courtyard Garden on February 12, 2012

Pampas Grass on January 5, 2012
While the Pampas Grass (Cortedaria selloana) still looked fairly attractive on January 5th of this year, it was definitely taking a beating from the weather by the first part of February.  We tried using a pair of light weight, high quality hedge shears to trim off the unattractive ends of the Pampas Grass leaves.  This left a relatively stiff, bottle brush type of appearance to the plants. 

Growing up in Kansas, one of the heartland states that has the largest remnant of the United States once vast prairies, I was familiar with a plant called Leavenworth Eryngium.  The flower/seed head of this prairie plant is shaped like a bottle brush or miniature pineapple and is colored a fabulous intense dark purple color during a certain stage of its life cycle.  The trimmed Pampas Grass had a similar texture and shape, although on a much larger and grander scale.  It seemed a natural to me to color the Pampas Grass a dark purple as a personal tribute to this wonderful western plant.  To this day, I still remember the exact location of my first encounter with Leavenworth Eryngium on a hillside with a spectacular view of the valley below on the former Fletcher ranch in the Osage cuestas of Kansas.

We secured permissions and support to go ahead with my plan to paint the trimmed Pampas Grass a dark purple color, although there were certainly plenty of questions such as 'Why do you want to do that?', 'Why purple?' and 'Is that normal?' and the restriction of making sure that it was not the school color of a competitor of the Terps sports teams that we would be playing.  Luckily, Leavenworth Eryngium purple was not Duke blue; however, I still not convinced that a sports team or school can own a color that plants such as Leavenworth Eryngium have owned for millions of years.

In our climate, the Pampas Grass and the 'Sweet Caroline' Hardy Hibiscus that was painted the light purple color are both perennials.  The above ground portions of these plants die back during the winter; however, they will send up new shoots from the base of the plants as the weather warms up in late spring.  We will cut these plants back to the ground in just a few weeks to allow for the new growth to emerge unimpeded by last years growth.  The bright colors will be dramatic, but a short lived experience.

More pictures of the purple Pampas Grass can be seen in a Flickr photo album
 Hopefully the dichotomy of the painted plants and the nearby natural plants will spark an interest and questions from some of those that walk through, but yet often don't see the landscape.  We are hoping that this unexpected landscape will brighten someone's day during the short cold days of winter, much as a smile or shared laughter can warm the heart.  If not, at least we had fun painting the Pampas Grass purple!

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Contact Information for the University of Maryland Arboretum and Botanical Garden

Mailing and Shipping address (This is the location of our partner, UMD Landscape Services, and the office of our Assistant Director, Karen Petroff):
University of Maryland
Wye Oak Building (428)
4201 Landscape Ln.
College Park, MD 20742-7215
phone: 301-405-3320
fax: 301-314-9943
hours: 6 am to 2:30 pm, M-F

Horticulturist's Offices and Meeting Room (No mail delivery or shipping to this location):
University of Maryland
Arboretum Outreach Center (156)
3931 Stadium Dr.
College Park, MD 20742
phone: 301-405-3320
fax: 301-314-9943
hours: 7 am to 3:30 pm, M-F, by appointment or prescheduled times only, as sometimes everyone is out on campus and the building will be locked

When using the UMD Campus Map, you can click on a building name and the street address of that building and other information about that building should come up in a pop up window.

blog administrator, Sam Bahr, 301-405-7926 or 301-405-3320
e-mail: sbahr@umd.edu

updated 1/30/20


Our gardens are free and open to the public. There are some parking lots (read the signs for that parking lot carefully) that are free to park in after 4 pm and before 7 am and on weekends, except on game days and during other special events. There is public parking in four large parking garages at the rate of $3 per hour with a daily maximum of $15. On weekends in the garages, the rate is $3 per hour with a daily maximum rate of $5 per hour. There is a small amount of additional pay parking along some streets.

Navigation around campus is much easier with this interactive campus map. You can look up parking locations and building locations using this map. Use the search tab to bring up the page to search for campus building names, locations and addresses. If you click on a building name on this interactive campus map, a popup window should appear with the address and other details about the building.

updated 10/6/2015

Butterfly feeding on the nectar of Russian Sage blossoms

General Information about the UMD Arboretum and Botanical Garden

The University of Maryland, the state’s flagship campus, is located in the Baltimore-Washington corridor. The American Association of Public Gardens, by designating the university as an arboretum and botanical garden in 2008, recognized former President C.D. Mote, Jr.’s commitment to becoming a green campus. Maryland is also the first university in the state to be honored as a Tree Campus USA by the Arbor Day Foundation.

The Arboretum and Botanical Garden consists of our entire 1,250 acre College Park, Maryland campus. The Campus collection of over 8,000 trees, garden plantings and nearly 400 acres of undeveloped urban forest is a beautiful reminder of Maryland’s history and a harbinger of Maryland’s future. The university looks at the campus’ green space as a major resource for its educational, research and service missions.

Hornbake Plaza

Hornbake Plaza
Honeylocust fall foliage color

University of Maryland Arboretum Explorer or UMD ABG Explorer (Tree and Shrub Inventory)

You can look up the identity of many trees and shrubs using this interactive campus map: https://maps.umd.edu/abg/. Herbaceous plants and even some small woody plants are not a part of this inventory. It is still a work in progress and we do not consider it a complete or entirely up to date inventory.

Our plant inventory or plant collections database can also be considered a plant database, plant search, plant locator, plant finder, plant collection database, living collections management system, plant records system or plant mapping system for campus plantings.

updated 1/30/20

Image and Link to the Interactive Campus Map Showing the Campus Plant Inventory

Tawes Plaza Gardens

Tawes Plaza Gardens
Kim's Knee High Purple Coneflower, Russian Sage, White Out Rose and Dwarf Pampas Grass are featured in this planting in 2010.